A crow trapped in hell might be the last thing to happen, in fact hell would freeze over before such a scenario would play out in reality, but for those bird lovers who want to indulge in some fantasy game playing this crow game might just be what you’ve been waiting for!

If you fancy braving the world of a crow in hell we have some tips on making your birds journey a tad easier, read on…

Crow in Hell delivers a beautiful game underscored by a deep level of challenge that would bring most keyboard veterans to their knees. With its simple plot line, intricately stylized artwork and uniquely defined controls, the game brings to us a redefinition of the already board concept of the pseudo-platformer.

Details Matter

Considering how difficult Crow in Hell is, it does get rather hard to appreciate the finer details of the game. But the developers did not hold back in polishing the visuals of the stages and more importantly, the crow itself. Crows movements and actions mimic that of real bird closely, and while the animations do take a few liberties with the frames (and yes, the physics does require a bit of suspended disbelief), one can almost feel the reality of actually controlling the crow just by watching it onscreen. The way the wings flap up in a glide as you swoop forward or how feathers just fall out all of a sudden all increases the sense of reality in the game.

Aside from the visual details, our decision to do a flight mechanics guide is also influenced by the lack of focus on it. With so many speed runs already created for the game, there really is no other way left to tell people how to get all the keys and find the exit to hell -it is all already out there. But what these speed runs and demonstrations do not teach to the viewer is how one can have precision controls seen in the vids. While the crow seems to flit about deftly on the screen, one can simply imagine doing hundreds of so many micro-taps that will stabilize the flight of the crow. Actually, the controls are a lot more intricate than that. Outside of the rough rapid tapping technique that most casual players may approach this game with, it is actually possible to control the crow with solid strokes and exact taps. All you need to know is how.

The Basic Concept

Above everything else, the developers did try to simplify the flight controls as much as possible, making the direction control patterns an intuitive aspect of the controls. Pressing up increases altitude, pressing down sends the bird flying downwards and holding either left or right moves the bird in the appropriate direction. The eight way directions also apply. Holding down either up or down plus left or right will send the crow flying in a diagonal path. Indeed, with controls as simple as these why is the game so hard?

The Semi Hover

As we said, Crow cannot hover -not realistically at least, but all birds are able to maintain a specific position mid air, and the same applies to our bird. The thing to remember here is that when left on its own, crow will very, very slowly move down. This is what players should take advantage of, by sending crow upwards in a fast motion, then letting go just as you reach your desired apex. The leaves the bird in moment of suspended flight as the acceleration starts to die down. If you find yourself sinking too fast, simply press up briefly to get crow back up.

If your a bird lover who wouldn’t mind amusing themselves with a few more games of the bird type check out BirdsGame.org. for the best accessible selection.

Just before Halloween in 2010, the team at Angry Birds decided to spring their second game in the series on the public; Halloween Trick or Treat.  The popular series has followed up the original game with 45 spooktacular levels.

The Game

The differences between this game and the first were minor. However, the reality is the fans of the series were not demanding anything else from the developers apart from new levels. So, actually, this game hit all the right notes with the fans. When the game was released in America on October 21^st 2010 it only came out for the iPhone and iPad. With this being said the game was eventually released on the Android platform under the same name.

Game Changes

The main change from the original game to this one was the introduction of 45 new levels. However, the only other substantial change was the introduction of pumpkins to the game. Having pumpkins on the game allowed the developers to put another obstacle in levels that they felt require it. Additionally, the pumpkin shell also replaces armour on this game. Another change was the addition of ‘spooky’ music, which was welcomed favourably by players.

Reception

When the game came out it broke a lot of records for the quickest selling application. In fact, in the first six days, the game retailed over one million copies, hitting number 1 in the UK and USA in 24 hours. This was at a time when Angry Birds game had only retailed roughly 2 million copies.

The game was seemingly successful because not only did Angry Birds already have a large fan base, but this game brought three times the amount of levels of a normal update, which meant it had great value for money.

Seasons

By the time the second season had come around, Angry Birds decided to release a game called Seasons rather than continue to release separate games all the time for every event in the year. As soon as the season’s game was released, Angry Birds Halloween could only be found in Seasons rather than as a separate copy.

While this game did not offer too many differences in terms of gameplay or graphics from the original Angry Birds, the developers had clearly listened to those who play the game and so did not make any major changes to the gameplay itself.

Angry Birds Halloween can be played for free as part of the season collection of Angry Birds in Google Chrome.

Rovio Entertainment has teamed up with a uk based playground manufacturer to create a range of activity playgrounds in which to encourage kids and adults a like to get out more and do some exercise as opposed to just sit indoors playing games such as Angry Birds all day long.

The Finnish city of Espoo have already agreed to allow the installation of 5 of the playgrounds in the city. To find out more locations to come visit Angry Birds Parks.

In a clear signal of Rovio’s intent to expand outside of casual games and possibly the Angry Birds brand the media company are becoming more and more interested in offline ventures using their online success and profits to fuel development in further channels and the activity playgrounds are just the start.

We already know that Rovio plan on releasing an Angry Birds movie and a cartoon series so what will be next on the agenda?

We wouldn’t be surprised if Rovio eventually teamed up with Disney to introduce an Angry Birds world into Florida Orlando Disneyland following the likes of Avatar and James Cameron who have already done a deal with Disney to introduce an Avatar themed land to the animal kingdom world at the massive theme park.

As the very first set of levels released to the public, Poached Eggs is probably the easiest. However, this does not make it simple. Here, we will look at how you can get three stars on every level of Poached Eggs.

Level 1-1

Hit the left corner underneath the pig.

Level 1-2

Hit the sloping wall as low as possible behind the forth pig. This will start a domino effect, which will take out all four pigs.

Level 1-3

Ignore the rock and aim for the second wooden piece.

Level 1-4

This is the first level that will require two birds to complete. Make sure you land your bird as is seen in the picture, and with the second bird aim for the top of the standing wooden block on the left.

Level 1-5

Hit the top of the highest stone structure on the left. This will start off the big boulder that will drop through the centre taking out all the pigs.

Level 1-6

Hit the two ice structures facing the birds. This will knock the structure onto the pigs.

Level 1-7

Hit the edge of the lowest wooden structure. This will nudge the ice structure into the middle pig and knock the two other off of the side.

Level 1-8

Aim for the small rock piece, this will take out the pig closest to it. Then the bird will roll down and eliminate the lowest one on the left-hand side. At the same time, the wooden and ice blocks will hit into the three boulders at the top of the structure, which will start them rolling down the right-hand side of the hill.

Level 1-9

Hit the wooden structure as high up and to the left as possible.

Level 1-10

Fire the first blue bird into the initial ice structures splitting them into three just before the bird hits in order to knock out the entire structure. Then do the same for the second.

Level 1-11

Hit the highest wooden plank on the left structure, this will start a domino effect and take out the rest.

Level 1-12

Aim for the wooden plank furthest to the left, and make sure you split your bird into three just before impact and this will cause enough force to topple the structure onto the three pigs.

Level 1-13

Aim for the ice structure that is guarding the second pig. Split the bird into three just before impact, and the force of the three birds will knock out the other two pigs.

Level 1-14

Take out the only ice structure on the map, which will destroy several pigs. Use the second bird to eliminate the remaining ones.

Level 1-15

The aim here is to split the three birds up so that one of the birds hits every tower. This will leave one pig that you can pick off with your next bird.

Level 1-16

With your first bird, aim as close to the centre of the structure as possible. This will take out one or maybe two of the pigs and will more importantly clear the way to pick off the remaining ones.

Level 1-17

Take out the lowest wooden area that you can in order to topple over the structure. This should get rid of all but one pig and will make picking off the next one easy.

Level 1-18

To do this level aim directly above the wooden structures that lay on top of the pigs. Make sure you start from the bottom and work your way up and the likelihood is that you will ‘get lucky’ and take out two pigs with one shot.

Level 1-19

With your first bird, you should aim to take out as much of the ice at the front of the structure as you can. This will mean splitting the bird up just before impact. As your next bird is yellow, if you have any ice blocking the path between your bird and the pig, you will have to restart the level, if not, it will be easy.

Level 1-20

Below the top boulder, you will see an ‘entry’ to the two pigs that is not obstructed by any rocks. Your aim is to catapult your bird high up, and then when you feel like your bird will be locked on to the centre of the two pigs tap it. You will never complete this level in one, but if you hit a ‘perfect shot’ on the first one, then just follow the same step with the second bird.

Level 1-21

With your first bird, take out the ice structure guarding the pig closest to you. This will require you to double tap the bird just before impact. With the second, ‘clean up’ the area that is protecting the pig in the centre. With the third, take out the central pig. This will allow you to get rid of the last pig with one of the next two birds, either of which will give you three stars.

Level 2-1

With the first bird, topple over the structure near the slingshot. Aim the next bird for the largest pig, and just before it is going to hit it tap it, this way the bird will take out the two remaining pigs closest to the slingshot and the other structure.

Level 2-2

With the first bird aim for the back of the ‘pit’ making sure that when you split the birds up one of them takes out the pig at the back. With your next shot, aim high and approach the pit splitting the birds up in order to get rid of as much of the ice pit as you can. This shot should take out the remaining pigs.

Level 2-3

With your first bird, you need to aim for the edge of the stone structure closest to the ground. If you hit it right it will cause the whole structure to tumble, but it might be the case that you have to pick up a straggler.

Level 2-4

Your first shot should get rid of the pig on the hill. Your second shot should then take out the ice structure supporting the boulders.

Level 2-5

This will be your first experience with the ‘bomb birds.’ Your initial shot should hit the bottom of the starting structure and explode there taking the pig out. All you need to do then is repeat this for the remaining two structures with the next two birds.

Level 2-6

With the first bird aim to take out the area just below the boulder, if you do this correctly, you can do the level in one. However, it will often leave you needing to pick up the pig at the bottom, which will not be an issue with your second bomb bird.

Level 2-7

All of your shots on this level should aim to hit as close to the centre of the structure as possible. To do this you will need to aim your first two birds high up in order for them to gain pace as they come down. It may require a bit of luck, but you should only use two birds to do this level.

Level 2-8

Aim your first bird for the wooden block on the higher structure, and that will be enough to complete the level.

Level 2-9

On this level, your first bird should be shot into the back hill so that it rolls down and explodes almost the whole structure away from the pig. With the second bird, try and clear away the area a bit more and with the final get rid of the pig.

Level 2-10

The initial bird should be aimed directly underneath the starting pig in order to take out the wooden structure. The second bird should be aimed at the first of the small boulders, but at the same time you should make sure the bird is fired in such a way that it continues to rise to take out the back structure as well.

Level 2-11

Your first three shots should all be aimed in the same place as shown in the picture. The final shot should take out the last pig. However, in order to get three stars you will need to blow up as much of the structure as possible.

Level 2-12

Your first shot should focus on taking out the majority of the ice, and the second should clear the remaining strands of ice up. In order to do this you will need to come in from the top (with your second shot) rather than the side. Your third shot should then be the same as the second and should take out enough of the wood to topple the structure onto the remaining pigs.

Level 2-13

Your first shot should take out the closest wooden structure to the catapult. Your second should aim for the same area.

Level 2-14

Your first shot should aim for the centre of the train, making sure that you tap just before impact. This should take out the three pigs closest to the slingshot. The last one will then be easy to pick up.

Level 2-15

This level is hard to complete but simple to explain. With the first bird, drop the bomb in the initial gap, with the second drop the bomb on the edge of the central structure just before impact. With the final bird, drop the bomb in the gap that is furthest away.

Level 2-16

The first bomb should hit the ‘open’ TNT box, and the second should be aimed for the enclosed TNT box and released just before impact.

Level 2-17

The first bomb should aim for the right side of the second pig. If you release this correctly, the bird can take out the third pig, but if not, just pick it up with the next shot. Then pick off the first pig by dropping a bomb before the starting structure.

Level 2-18

If you release the first bird at the right time you can actually take out all the three structures up the top. This will also get rid of the two pigs underneath. Try and do this, and if you cannot then use the second bird to pick off anything left.

Level 2-19

Aim your first bird for the closest ice obstacle on the map, which will remove everything apart from the stone. The second bird should be aimed to sit on the left-hand side of the stone structure, which will be enough to blow up the pigs.

Level 2-20

Look carefully and you will see that the TNT box (from behind) is not very well guarded so your first shot should be to hit this area behind the TNT box. This will take out the whole main structure allowing it to fall onto the two pigs at the front.

Level 2-21

With the first bird, you should aim for the closest pig. This should leave the second with a wooden structure to take out. If you aim into the centre of the structure, this will be enough to finish the level.

Level 3-1

Aim the first bird for the top TNT box at such an angle that the small boulder pings onto the large boulder. This will set off a domino like effect and should take out all the pigs.

Level 3-2

Aim directly down to the central pig with the first bird. Then pick off the last remaining pig.

Level 3-3

Your first shot should be aimed at the rock that is directly above the third diamond-shaped structure. This will take out the two pigs furthest away from the slingshot. Your second shot should be aimed at the front. With this shot, make sure you double tap as soon as you release in order to get the best chance of taking out the two other pigs.

Level 3-4

With your first bird, you should aim for the legs of the stick man. This should take out all the pigs on the hill. This will allow you to pick off the remaining pig with your second bird.

Level 3-5

Your first and second shots s should be aimed in the same position as the picture below:

Level 3-6

Your first shot should hit the small wooden piece just past the wooden structure, which should be enough to take out the line. Then, aim your second shot at the front stone structure which will push it along toppling over the wooden structure with the pig in.

Level 3-7

Your first shot should take out the central structure and the two pigs in it as well as the pig closest to the bottom right-hand corner. Your next shot should aim for the pig furthest away, but at the same time one of your ‘breakaways’ should fall and hit the TNT box. This could be enough to take out all the pigs. However, you may be left with the one at the front.

Level 3-8

Aim your first shot at the front TNT box, which will topple over the majority of the structure. Your next two shots should try and remove as much of the wooden remains as possible. Your final shot should aim for the back TNT box, which will take out the rest of the structure and the two pigs.

Level 3-9

Aim your first bird at the only ice structure on the map. This will either take out all the pigs below or everyone but one.

Level 3-10

If you are skilful enough, you can do this in one shot. Aim your first bird and toward the centre, and when the time is correct, deploy the three birds to destroy the top three ice platforms.

Level 3-11

With every one of the three shots, make sure you aim for the centre of the ice structure.

Level 3-12

Use your initial bird to take out the only ice structure you can hit. Make sure your second shot hits the same position. This should leave you with only two pigs. Use your white bird to pick them off.

Level 3-13

Use the first bird to hit the TNT up the top. This should leave you with one pig that can simply be picked off by hitting the remaining boulder.

Level 3-14

Take out the initial wooden structure with your first bird. This is a move that should hopefully get rid of three pigs as well. Then, use your next bird to hit into the stone structure at the back causing it to move. Then use the third bird to take out the ice structure at the back.

Level 3-15

Shoot your first bird just above the initial die. This should leave you with one pig that you can pick off with your next bird.

Level 3-16

The first shot you take is irrelevant on this map so you can shoot it away from the structure. Your second shot, on the other hand, should fly over the top of the structure, and the bomb should be released right in the middle. If this is preformed correctly the structure will topple, and the level will be complete.

Level 3-17

Fire your initial bird into the first pig in the stone wall. This should take out the three at the front and leave a small opening at the back. This is where you should aim your second bird.

Level 3-18

Aim your first bird at the structure underneath the initial TNT box. It is important not to set it off but to push it onto the pigs in order for it to cause the most damage. Your next shot should focus on taking out the back structure in order to push the TNT onto the other pigs once again. Your final shot should then be simple.

Level 3-19

Aim your first shot at the highest stone piece on the initial structure, which will move it into the three TNT boxes. Your second aim is to take out the next TNT box in the series, which should be enough to complete the level.

Level 3-20

Aim your first bird into the top of the initial structure. This shot should take out the two-front pigs. Aim your second shot for the only pig that is uncovered setting off the bomb just before impact so that the bird knocks out the rest of the structure at the back. For the third shot, do the same as the first. This will allow you to use the fourth bird to pick off the remaining large pig in the centre.

Level 3-21

The final level is unsurprisingly one of the hardest to negotiate. Ignore the gap the back of the structure and aim the first four birds toward the ‘king pig.’ This should be enough to take out all the pigs by or under the initial structure. You should use your fifth shot to eliminate the last pig at the back.

Released in April 2011, just one month after St Patrick’s Day, Angry Birds Easter proved to be a resounding success, which was something that a lot of people had expected because of the reputation the brand had acquired.

Like the previous games in the series (apart from Trick or Treat), this game brought 15 exciting new levels with the option to play three additional levels if you followed the game on twitter.

Changes

While the new levels were the main change from the previous game, other minor changes were also made to the game. In this game, instead of pots of gold, the new point’s targets were eggs. Furthermore, each Easter egg was worth 1000 points. As expected the music had also been changed from a jaunty Irish jig to a jolly Easter tune.

Egg Hunt

The main addition of this game was the rather exciting egg hunt. This allowed the player to open up 10 new levels if they could find a series of eggs that had been hidden across the levels. Here, we look at where these eggs can be found:

Level 2 & 4 – The first patch of grass closest to the slingshot.

Level 6 – On the top hill on the far right, which can only be accessed with a yellow bird at speed.

Level 7 – Drop a bomb with the white bird in front of the blocks behind the slingshot.

Level 8 – Hit the dynamite under the slingshot.

Level 9 – Drag the bird diagonally up and to the right and let go, you should then see a golden egg appear on your screen.

Level 10 – Hit the grass under the slingshot (on the side of the hill.)

Level 12 – Destroy the doughnut on the right. This will release the golden egg. You will then have to pick it up with another bird.

Level 15 – Hit the grass behind the slingshot, and then hit the wood that appears in the same place. When you do this, you will have to hit the golden egg with one of the remaining birds.

Level 16 – Hit the four-leaf-clover on the left of the slingshot.

This addition to the game brought a different aspect with it. The treasure hunt game added something new to the dynamic of the game, and this was something that received a positive reception from those that played it because, while it added a new dimension, it did not take anything away from the structure of the game itself.

This new addition made Angry Birds Easter game one of the most successful that had been released. This is because it was the first that managed to break away from the original game without losing the basis completely.

Size: 33-36CM, 12.5-14INC

The Barn Owl is an average-sized owl; it has a heart-shaped face, yellow-brown and grey upper parts and white under parts. Plus, it is shaky when it flies, has an incredibly loud, screeching call and generally has a ‘ghostlike’ look. It can be recognised immediately to everybody and is an exceptionally gorgeous bird for sure.

Barn Owls prefer open space, like the countryside. Also, they would rather hunt next to field edges, measly locations, ditches, trenches and woodland edges. They nest in barns, exclusive owl boxes and hollow trees.

They are located all over western and north Eastern Europe, and in Britain following an acute fall because of all sorts of reasons, including poisoning, catching, suspicious building customs and an rise in traffic fatalities-the Barn Owl is, gradually increasing in numbers.

Throughout the winter period, and breeding season, Barn Owls can frequently be spotted during the daytime.

The Alba tribe of the Barn Owl discovered in Western Europe has a white heart-shaped face with an unclear slim, grey rim and stunning black-eyes. The rest of their head, their covering and the majority of their wings are rich yellowy-orange and combined with greys, blacks and browns. Their short tail display three grey bars. The under parts are white, marked on their rims and thighs. Their sort of long legs are feathered white, whilst their feet are pink and have black claws.

The adult birds tend to work very hard to ensure their broods are well nourished and throughout the breeding season no tiny creature is secure!

An infrequent guest into Britain is the central and eastern and north Eastern Europe dark-breasted race guttata. Physically the same, the under parts of these barn owls are much darker compared to the nominate race Alba, seeming much greyer on their mantle and wings. The heart on their face is a washed greyish-brown, whilst their under parts are a rich brown with neat careful dark staining from their breast to tummy.

Hanging on in an appropriate roof space for the arrival of an adult loaded with food, the young Barn Owls look like a sincere line of choir members. The down of their youthful days is rapidly lost-bars a limited bunch on their head-while their recognisable feathers start to shed through. Adult Barn Owls have done a great job if they are manage to feed, care for and rear young birds for flight. They require decent weather, caring landlords and a huge supply of creatures to be successful.

Size: 32-34CM, 13-14INC

A well-known summer visitor, Cuckoos is discovered throughout Europe from the beginning of April to the middle of September. Cuckoos spend time in a huge range of habitats, ranging from forests to reed beds, sand dunes to high grounds. Their long tail and sharp wings occasionally cause mix-ups with specific birds of prey like falcons and hawks. Their speedy flight is somewhat raptor -like. Nevertheless, when its prominent call is listened to, there is no recognition difficulty.

Cuckoos have fostered a really sly method of nurturing their brood. The women tends to lay her eggs in another ‘birds’ nests, garden creatures like the Dunnock and Robin constantly being their preferences, and ‘permit’ the new parent the joy of bringing up an enormous youth that gradually although certainly ‘removes’ the other eggs and nestlings.

Cuckoos fly in a completely alternate way, generally quite low to the ground, however, they have the ability to glide long distances. When they land, their wings bow and their tail elevates.

A male Cuckoo, somewhat silver-grey displays a complete head and upper breasts. Their covering and the majority of their wings are a bit darker and their flying feathers are really dark grey. Their backend is the same tone of grey and their head and breast, whilst their tail is for a second time dark, although it has white marks on both tail feathers, finished with a noticeable white tail tip. Their under parts from lower breasts to their under tail-coverts are streaked black and white. Their beak is orange yellow at the base with a dark tip, and their eyes are orange with a thin yellow orbital ring. Their legs and feet are orange-yellow.

The characteristic reddish-brown segment of the female Cuckoo is rarer than the more common grey birds, although not as scarce as certain books lead you to think. The complete under parts of the bird, apart from the primaries, displays a reddish-brown ground colour with subtle black streaks from head to tail. Their undersides are stripped black and white from chin to tail, including a yellowish layer on their cheeks, breast sides and the undersides of their tail. Their exposed areas are like their males. When they fly, their under parts, and their figure, reveals an incredibly attractive vision.

Grey female Cuckoos are identical to the male except for a distinct brownish wash on their breast and browner-looking flight feathers.

Young Cuckoos, tend to receive a lot of help from their replacement parents, even after their feathers are long and sturdy enough to fly. Their feather covers seem to be a dark grey ground colour on their head and back, including white feather borders. Their wings are alike, although reveal extra brown streaks. Their throat and upper breast are tarnished with deep black and white bars that are extensively spread apart from their lower breasts to the tail.

Size: 26-29CM, 10-11INC

The Turtle Dove is a tiny, thin looking bird that is popular throughout most of Europe throughout the summer periods. Mostly, timid, it is located in forests, estates and wild hedge grows, although it can be a guest to big city and countryside gardens.

Turtle Doves generally come to Britain in the middle of April to the beginning of May, and reside in this country until middle to the end of September. At coastline resorts during spring, plenty can be met in a day, lashing in off the sea following their long voyage from Africa.

Tiny-headed, with a thin body, long adjusted tail and multi-coloured feathers, the Turtle Dove is a charming, and distinct petite pigeon. It’s gentle and intense vibrating ‘rrooorr rrooorr’ song, regularly reiterated for prolong periods of time, is capable of being heard during the end of spring and beginning of summer.

The head displays a dainty grey mould to their brow, crown and neck, with a buffy-pink face. Their neck displays numerous black bars with distinct white borders. Their covering is yellowish-brown, turning into a grey backend and dark closed tail. Their ring is rich chestnut with bold black feather centres, apart from a grey forewing and dark flying feathers.

Their breast is pinkish-grey, diminishing to off white, or light-grey on their sides and tummy. Their beak has a light base and black a black tip. Their eyes are orange with a deep red orbital ring. Their legs and feet are reddish-brown.

• They are incredibly good-looking when they are seen from below. Their light grey head and pink breast contrast with their dark grey and black under wings and their black and white tail.
• Their upper wing sight of the Turtle Dove is very dissimilar compared to their under wing view. Grey, chestnut, black all mismatch in a burst of colour. Especially attractive are their tail pattern-grey central feathers, diminishing in to brown followed by black, with extensive white tips apart from on their main tail feathers.
• Young Turtle Doves display a polished head, no neck bars and gentler drearier brown ring patterns. Their wings display a lesser amount of grey too, whilst their breast is much more polished compared to their adults.

Size: 31-35CM, 12-14INC

The Feral Pigeon is a really well-known dove, plump in appearance, and is incredibly popular throughout the entire continent. They can definitely be spotted everywhere, being really easy to see in towns and cities, frequently in extremely big numbers. They’re famous for their tremendous meekness, entirely content, receiving from the hand. They are infamous for their untidiness, frequently guiding for pleas for huge extinction!

Feral Pigeons have succeeded in breaking into the Rock Dove population of Britain, causing a radical impact on the wild, pure Rock Dove. Feral Pigeons reproduce willingly al through the year, and, being a lot calmer natured compared to the Placid Rock Dove, they are gradually shifting northwards these days.

They arrive in an amazing array of different feathers, ranging from white to black to brown to grey, with a range of diverse blends and patterns; however, the Feral Pigeon is an unmistakable bird.

• This pigeon is one of the countless variations discovered amongst the Feral Pigeon group. Its head, under parts and the majority of their upper parts are dark grey. Their upper tail is almost grey and their rear end is white. Their wings are shady and pale-grey. Their eyes are sort of brownie – orange, with a white orbital ring. Their legs and feet are pink.
• The Feral Pigeon is alike to the genuine Rock Dove. Their blue-grey head merges into a glossy green shine on their neck and their upper breast displays a purple shine, differing with the greens and greys.

An incredibly recognisable view in urban locations is a flock of Feral Pigeons flying painlessly over rooftops. The Feral Pigeon has a very easy, sailing flight, which is interspersed with slow, deliberate flaps and glides.

Size: 29-32CM, 11-13INC

The Collard Dove is a unique, thin, long-tailed bird that is prevalent, and effortlessly viewed, across Europe. It is spotted in city gardens, towns and villages, in addition to more open areas.

The coverage of Collard Doves is really extraordinary. They were first located in Asia, and their conquest into Europe properly happened in the mid-1900s. The first birds were seen in Britain in the 1950s, and a tiny reproducing population became started in East Angalia in 1955. Nowadays, almost 40 years later, the Collard Dove is found all over Britain, in huge numbers.

Callard Doves are instantly recognisable birds; however, they might be mistaken with a turtle Dove if you have a poor vision. Collard Doves are broad winged and long tailed, with mostly light feather coverage. They have a distinct call, ‘coo-coo-kut’, and their middle syllable is higher pitched and stressed and their last one is short and clipped; which has become one of the most recognisable expected vibrations of the suburbs. Their call is occasionally confused with the Cuckoo, although they are not that similar at all. Collared Doves pass a dragged out nasal ‘kwurr’ when they fly too.

Adult and young Collard Doves have a dark beak, black eyes with a thin white orbital ring with rose legs and feet. They are the same in so many ways, although the young does not have the traditional collar of their adult, and has greyer additionally scabby looking feather coverage.

Their head and breast are a subtle shade of pink. Their necks display a distinct black and white collar. Their coating is light sandy- brown, their backside grey, fading to polish upper tail feathers. Their closed tail appears somewhat grey, with buffy and white external feathers. Their wings are sandy brown in colour, and have grey on their forewing and black wing tips. Their belly is light pasty grey, and has a slight tinge of pink, getting darker on their under tail coverts and openings. Certain Collard Doves have an incredibly pale feather cover, appearing really ‘washed out’.